“But the grilled Sussex halloumi looked too good not to have: two wide slices bubbling on the skillet to be slid onto spiced fig honey, pine nuts and mint. And from there I couldn’t quite make it to actual meat, great though the mangalitza pork belly and lamb kofta sounded. So I kept it plant-based with some super-slithery smoked miso aubergine, disciplined with crispy onions and sour cream, and a plate of barbecued pumpkin, charrily meaty in its own way, with spiced ricotta and pickled mushrooms.
No room for pudding, obvs. I’d already snarfed down eight dishes after my server had expressly instructed me to choose two or three, maximum four. And that gluttony led me to my only quibble. Not a complaint, Lord knows. I don’t want you to think I was sat there like some goddam line judge shouting, “Fault!” when tiny things displeased me. My overall verdict is, “Hurrah!” But when a kitchen is doing so much with each dish, putting so many flavours on each plate, you can start to feel a little overwhelmed. Certain notes can seem to repeat quite often, in a meal that is honestly not repetitious in the least…”
59 Middle Street, Brighton (01273 929923; burnt-orange.co.uk)
Price There is a nine-dish sharing menu for two or more people priced at £35pp, which is absurdly great value.”